Winter lights, culinary trails, even a Justin Bieber exhibition: What to see and do in Stratford, Ont., this season

Southwestern Ontario has no shortage of picturesque small towns, but Stratford may be the prettiest of them all. It’s long leaned into its Shakespearean influences, with its grand Victorian homes and street names like Romeo and Falstaff. The Avon River, with its elegant swans, runs behind a charming main street made up of lively restaurants and specialty shops. And long before the establishment of the now-famous Stratford Festival in 1952, locals celebrated the bard’s 300th birthday with a “Festival of Shakespearean Orations, Recitations and Songs” in 1864.

Although the theatre season takes a break in winter (and even the stubborn swans are forced to move on, once the Avon freezes over), there’s still plenty to do in this delightful enclave, from weaving in and out of boutiques to checking out the Lights on Stratford winter festival (Dec. 16 to Jan. 27). Stratford’s attractions are just a two-hour drive from Toronto, making for an easy day trip or weekend, as I discovered on a recent getaway.

For a trail of a different sort: Stratford Culinary Trails

We’re not talking about hiking here. Stratford offers two self-guided culinary trails: Bacon & Ale and Chocolate. Pick up your choice of themed pass ($35, at Destination Stratford, 47 Downie St.), and you’ll be covered for select treats at multiple stops across the city. On the Chocolate Trail, consider popping into Lady Glaze for vegan doughnuts in fanciful flavours like cinnamon toast crunch or Kir royale, or try the gourmet chocolates at Rheo Thompson Candies, a specialty chocolatier operating since 1969. Over on the Bacon & Ale Trail, you can sample a flight of fruity sours at Heritage Hops, or try more classic brews at Black Swan.

For an artful afternoon: Gallery Stratford (54 Romeo St. S.)

Just a five-minute drive outside Stratford’s old town, Gallery Stratford occupies the city’s original pump house, built in 1883. It’s home to works by mid-century Canadian artists like David Partridge and Eric Freifeld. But the big draw right now is an immersive, 3D installation by Guelph-based artist Evelyn Sorochan-Ruland, whose sculptural work is made up of plaster and construction rebar to evoke modern ruins. Admission is pay-what-you-can, and the surrounding forested grounds make for a scenic walk through freshly fallen snow.

For well-rounded local history: Stratford Perth Museum (4275 Huron St.)

Stratford has two claims to fame: its namesake theatre fest and Justin Bieber, who was raised here. Both are on proud display at the Stratford Perth Museum. There’s an extensive retrospective of the city’s Shakespearean roots (with the throne from a production of “Richard III,” and old playbills and posters), and until the end of the year, there’s a special exhibition dedicated to the homegrown pop sensation (the Bieber memorabilia includes personal items brought in by his grandparents). You can also head upstairs to learn the history of the Perth Regiment and the soldiers’ efforts during WWII.

For a rustic yet chic dinner: Elizabeth (159 Ontario St.)

With its exposed-brick walls, polished-wood bar top and vaguely mid-century stylings, you’d never know Elizabeth’s space used to be a greasy spoon. Opened this summer, this newcomer to Stratford’s restaurant scene is all about approachable takes on refined fare. Think: crispy devilled eggs, Spanish-inspired octopus and potatoes, and salt-roasted beets with cloudlike whipped ricotta. A wine list highlighting natural and low-intervention options is the perfect accompaniment.

For a nightcap with a twist: The Relic Lobby Bar (6 Ontario St.)

The Relic is Stratford’s best cocktail bar — and not just because it’s the only one. Nostalgia is the name of the game here: Waitresses dress up in ’20s and ’30s looks with finger waves and flapper dresses; the cocktail menu features plenty of Prohibition- and Tiki-themed drinks; and the decor leans heavy on antiques. Order a Pearl Diver (a heavenly concoction of three different rums, alongside whipped butter and aromatic spices), and if you’re lucky, you may even catch a live music set.

Liz Guber travelled as a guest of Destination Stratford, which did not review or approve this article.

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