This sun-drenched island tastes like Paris under palm trees — and it’s a non-stop flight from Toronto

Wedged between the Atlantic Ocean and Caribbean Sea, St. Martin is a slice of France awash in warm tropical waters. With 37 pristine beaches, it’s a coveted escape from the winter chills of the northeast. Plus, it tastes like Paris underneath palm trees, having attracted many a French chef with its sun, sea and spices.

On a recent trip this summer, as I walked along the beach with my Pineapple Bay cocktail in one hand and a straw sun hat in another, I savoured the drink and the scenery, marvelling at the deliciousness of both. Getting there from Toronto is easy: In under five hours, you can fly non-stop to St. Maarten, the southern Dutch half of the island (travellers can freely cross from the Dutch to French side, and vice versa). Should you visit, here are five ways to relish St. Martin.

For French fare with ocean views: La Terrasse (Front de Mer, Marigot)

Owner Dylan Wagner, who moved here from Southeast France after falling in love with the island, takes inspiration from classic French dishes and his grandmother’s recipes. At this rooftop restaurant overlooking the town centre and turquoise waves, his traditional favourites include slow-roasted duck, garlic butter snails, and chocolate mousse with shredded almonds. Also delightful is the egg cocotte: a baked (yet still soft in the centre) oeuf, with bacon chips, mushrooms and peppers, served with a crispy baguette.

For scenic day-tripping: Captain Jo Boat Charter (Anse Marcel Marina)

St. Martin is neighboured by a handful of other small islands, many of them blissfully secluded and uninhabited, so consider booking a private half- or full-day catamaran cruise with Captain Jo Boat Charter to explore. Find long stretches of white sand at Tintamarre, where sometimes you can have an entire beach to yourself. Stop for a swim or lunch at Pinel Island, plus a chance to see iguanas nearby. Snorkel among tropical fish near Creole Rock, a tiny island that is also a marine protected area harbouring a vibrant coral reef. Or rent a kayak with Caribbean Paddling and paddle around instead — just bring plenty of sunscreen.

For a personalized memento: Tijon (1 L’Esperance, Grand Case)

Learn the art, science and history of fragrance-making at this boutique shop specializing in custom scents. First, you’ll sniff several dozen notes to pick a handful you adore. Then you’ll pipette and mix them in the right proportions under the guidance of a perfumer, and you’ll leave with at least one bespoke bottle to take home. Some of the ingredients come from the Caribbean (and others from across the globe), so you can bottle up a memory of St. Martin, too.

For fine dining in a swimsuit: Coco Beach (Orient Bay Beach)

With comfy beach chairs and wooden cocktail tables set beneath breezy white tents and palm trees, Coco Beach is a place where you can go for a swim between your appetizer and main course. Dishes like duck ravioli and smoked salmon stuffed with goat cheese arrive to the soundtrack of ocean waves — and with a whiff of sea salt in the air. Be sure to try the lobster on a brioche roll, and savour the signature Fraicheur Exotique passion fruit mousse while dipping your toes in the sand.

For crafty goods: Marigot Market (Boulevard de France, near ferry terminal)

Brimming with golden papayas, green plantains, rainbow-coloured peppers and fresh seafood (including just-caught fish and shrimp), Marigot Market is a spectacle worth your time — even if you aren’t cooking dinner. Grab a hand-painted bottle of fruit-infused rum, or browse the stalls for woven straw hats and baskets, jewelry carved from the discarded pulp of palms and coconuts, and other locally crafted souvenirs. The market is open daily, except Sunday, from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m.

Lina Zeldovich travelled as a guest of the St. Martin Tourist Office, which did not review or approve this article.

SHARE: